Rigatony's plagued by hurried service
RIGATONY'S 1374 N. Arizona Ave., Chandler, 899-1111
The hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner, 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4 to
10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
The lowdown: Rigatony's is a reasonably priced, likable Italian eatery to which East Valley diners flock. Parking
can be problematic during prime dining hours. However, extra parking time pays off The food, for the most part,
is flavorful and appears in a timely manner at the correct temperature.
There is a problem, though, one that many eateries today face: the indifferent server who's in a hurry, seemingly
a hurry to get you out so he can leave. The meal was rushed from the moment we sat down and went rapidly downhill
from there.
Also, we noticed newly seated adult diners were greeted with a small glass of what looked to be wine. It was only
after we questioned our waiter that he divulged the details: The glass contains the house chianti and is a welcoming
gesture. I commend the house on its marketing -- after a taste (those of legal drinking age, of course), management
hopes you'll order more. However, our waiter's excuse for skipping our pre-meal chianti course doesn't, hold water
or wine. He stated he didn't have any chianti in back.
The menu: Rigatony's menu is ambitious, a listing of mainly Italian/ American favorites. In addition to standards
such as spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and ravioli, there are plenty of pastas, sauced with plenty of sauce options:
clam, cheese, primavera, marinara, even lemon butter. Grilled goods include a hefty pork chop and several veal
varieties.
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The scene: It's an energetic eatery: Two dining rooms, one with the bar, offer both booth and table seating.
Overhead, wooden shelves display plants, bottles of dozens of shapes and sizes, pasta boxes, olive oil and cookie
tins. And if you like Frank Sinatra, you'll get an earful here; works for me.
The damage: Starters range from $3.50 to $8.95, pizzas $6.25 to $8.25, main dishes $8.50 to $13.95. Sweet endings:
fork out $2.50 to $3.95.
The recommendation: Enjoy the sliced bread round that appears (or should appear) before any pre-meal bites. It's remarkably
flavorful, due in part to its baked-on herb and cheese topping. The dough, according to the waiter, is imported
from a local source, then baked at the restaurant. No matter its origin, it's easy to polish off the loaf.
What arrives as the "mozzarella pullapart" starter resembles a grilled, rather pressed cheese sandwich;
not exactly what I'd pictured and nothing really pulls apart. Instead, snap a piece off at the crease. Also, the
menu states gorgonzola is an ingredient. In what? The cheese's flavor was so faint, I can only assume a small chunk
must have been waved over the sandwich on its way out of kitchen.
Two ample pasta dishes do produce grins at the table: The grilled chicken linguine selection also contains pancetta
(Italian bacon) and zucchini, all enveloped in a light, velvety asiago cheese sauce. It's a pleasing blend of flavors.
Lobster fusilli finds the long, spiral noodles decorated with quite a few perfectly cooked chunks of lobster meat,
flavor-packed cured tomato quarters, artichoke quarters and a handful of chopped parsley.
For dessert get the cappuccino pie, gilded with a cloud of whipped cream. But insist on a cold plate. Though the
waiter professed a liking for the canoli custard parfait, I found it, like the waiter's attitude, to be uninspired.
-Donald Downes
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